The jack-of-all-trades fruit. When unripe (*hilaw*), it's the star of *ginataang langka*. When ripe (*hinog*), it's the sweet, distinct flavor in your halo-halo or turon. It's huge, sticky when you prep it, and has a smell that you either love or hate—no in-between. Vegans now call it "pulled pork," we've been calling it *ulam* for centuries.